holley sniper efi iac problems

Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. Or, at least, it should. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! I think you'll be all set! I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. Capability Range: Professional That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Any ideas here? Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. Thanks for your very detailed question! I keep doing that with the same result. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. He has walked me through every question Iv. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. That is not the way to go. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. Also its extremely rich at idle. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. No problems with either cold or hot starts. That Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. It then started working normally again. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. Add To Cart. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block If you use your handheld to go here: The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. Please help. (Do this while you are cranking.) I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. have the system learn the higher speeds? I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I You are aware of the idle-up problem. What you are experiencing is rather common. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. It's called tuning. It won't take much! no timing control. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. holley efi. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. I have not heard of this. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. Good luck! Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. I never had a problem with this. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. Hang in there--you can do it. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. Thank you so much for your follow-up. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. Going back to what you said. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. IAC Pos.% = 0 I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. All times are GMT-6. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Thanks again for your insights! Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. It will need to see it again and again. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. The problem was RF interferance . Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. Thank you for your input. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. That is not something I'd ignore. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. No air should be able to pass. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Hope this helps! I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop.

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